The magical motorcycle tour Part 3

Fifth day: Kendwa

Boat at sunrise, Matemwe

Early morning I capture my best shot from Zanzibar. It is of a dhow sitting dead in the calm morning waters of the Indian Ocean while the sun rises to its glory behind it, while the clouds in the sky and their reflection on the water take my breath away.

Collecting seaweed at dawn, Matemwe

On the road to Kendwa

I have no fixed place to stay tonight. The plan had been to stay in the Hilton Doubletree for the night, but our request was denied as the hotel was “full” (we called up separately and actually they had plenty of free rooms...) So I ride around a bit, and take the bike right up to the Nungwi beach. I decide I would prefer to stay in Kendwa, as it is cheaper and to my eyes more beautiful. I eventually settle for a room at Sunset Bungalows, on the beach.

Hammock at Sunset Bungalows, Kendwa

I spend the day getting organised and prepared as the next day I must return the bike to its rightful owner. The evening brings the sun setting in the distance with sailboat after sailboat engaging the camera. Every time a sail boat goes past, there is a line of tourists on the beach trying to capture the most commonly taken picture here. I love this beach, it reminds me of Goa, with the same beachy, party crowd.

Stunning clear ocean at Kendwa

The beach at Kendwa

I make quite a few friends here at the bar, from one guy who has been staying in Zanzibar for over a year taking abstract pictures with his iPhone to a South African man who owns a yacht that he charters out to groups of tourists. All these people are so different from each other but are so happy having fun together – that’s what holidaying is about. I join in the fun.

Boat at sunset

Sixth day: Town

I wake up happy. As my motorcycle escapade draws to a finish, I realise I have fallen in love with Zanzibar.

The road from Kendwa to Stone Town

I ride to Stone Town and return the bike to Sabry, the owner of Zanzibar Car Hire. The company has been kind enough to give me the bike for the whole six days of this African trip of mine. The bike gave me occasional grief, but I really couldn’t complain. She kept running when I needed her to and we gelled well together. It’s time to say farewell to the Z68.

The motorcycle ride is now over but my trip was to have a surprise extension. I am to spend the day shooting at one of the best hotels near town, Mtoni Marine. As I get out of my cab, already dealing with the move from two wheels to four, I enter a new world as I step up to reception. This is the most luxurious of all the places I have seen here – I tour Mrembo, the hotel’s spa and am shown my room, an upbeat club room, with my own garden terrace.

The interior of my room at Mtoni Marine

The terrace outside my room

Mrembo spa at Mtoni Marine

I walk out to the swimming pool, which is practically on the beach. It looks like the sun is setting in the swimming pool, or at least it would look that way if it wasn’t for the half overcast sky. I take pictures regardless. The earth is beautiful, however it is.

Swimming pool at Mtoni Marine

After dark I pack up my equipment and leave it at the room, dinner is to be a grand affair.

Table is set on the beach for dinner

I take my place at a table as close to the waters’ edge as can be. The subtle breeze plays with my hair while the sound from the musicians’ violin and djembe drum massages my ears. The candle flickers with the wind in its round lampshade housing. To my heart, though, something doesn’t feel right.

This is Zanzibar, an African island with a sprawling tourism industry in the middle of plenty of outstanding social problems. There is a lot that needs mending in this seemingly perfect place.

I know this feeling, I’m from India. I can see that the common citizen is being ignored when it comes to the bigger picture, just like at home. Under the surface of Zanzibar lie many patches of discoloured reality. That is the real Zanzibar. Not this beach side luxury dinner arrangement that I was at. I don’t expect this. I don’t know what to think.

Dinner arrives: lentil soup, fresh impala meat flown in from South Africa the same day, and the best cheesecake I have ever tasted. It is a lavish spread indeed and it tastes brilliant. My mind keeps racing though, am I here for this? I am enjoying myself but I can’t stop pondering.

I conclude that I will have to spend more time here before reaching any sort of concrete judgement. This is a beautiful, beautiful place and I want to spend the rest of my time here digging deeper into the culture and grassroot realities rather than the ‘tourist’ experience.

Oh Zanzibar.

A new day dawns in Zanzibar

To rent a motorbike through Zanzibar Car Hire, call (+255) 777 414044 or email info [at] zanzibarcarhire [dot] com

The hotels featured in the tour are Mashariki Palace Hotel, Stone Town (+255) 24 223 7232 or info [at] masharikipalacehotel [dot] com; Karamba, Kizimkazi (+255) 773 166406 or info [at] karambaresort [dot] com; Seasons, Pongwe (due to open 2011); Nyota Beach Bungalows, Matemwe info [at] nyotabeachbungalows [dot] com; Sunset Bungalows, Kendwa (+255) 777 413818 or info [at] sunsetkendwa [dot] com and Mtoni Marine, Mtoni, near Stone Town (+255) 24 225 0140 or mtoni [at] zanzibar [dot] cc.

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