The best of Pemba

Our non-English speaking taxi driver drove us further into coastal forest, assuring us all the time we were going to the right place to see Pemban bullfighting. But between the pine trees and the sand, there wasn’t a bull in sight. The road quickly turned to track and we eventually finished up in the northernmost village of Pemba, Ras Kiuyu. Only a few hand signals and some very scrambled sentences were exchanged before the mood changed, curious smiles turned to angry shouting and we were escorted out of the village by our driver, who sped off down the road before anyone could exchange fists or throw stones at the taxi. If you want to know what we did to get kicked out of the village (and so do I) you’ll have to ask the taxi driver.

We asked him again if it was the right place and he nodded emphatically. We had no idea that there are three villages called Kiuyu in Pemba.

The Pemba rollercoaster is an amazing ride through lush forests and the denser Swahili culture. Still slightly unaccustomed to tourists, Pembans are much more curious to see travellers and your journey will definitely turn some heads. However, if you’d like to see the hilly countryside without the confusion of ending up in the wrong place, take a look at our pick of Pemba.     

Chake Chake

Chake Chake is the main town and unofficial capital of Pemba, though you will be hard pressed to find any tourist amenities unless you search for them. It's presently the only place on the island with an ATM and internet cafe, and local restaurants are still very local. You could be the only tourist there at any one time. If you're backpacking you'll definitely get a kick out of Chake Chake's atmosphere; the town market is filled with fresh-fruit and fish and local stores stock some interesting kangas not seen on Unguja. It was in Chake Chake that we discovered the local bread called 'Jem', a highly addictive carb-boost, baked inside a hot clay oven. The smell is incredible and you cannot leave Pemba without trying it. Because most spices are produced in Pemba, the aromatic essential oils are also well worth picking up in Chake Chake. For those with an ear for language, the tell-tale Pemban dialect swings out over the top of dala-dala engines. If you don’t have private transport organised, you’ll need to take your dala-dala from Chake Chake town to avoid getting lost.

Misali island

Directly facing Mecca, Misali is so-called because of a prophet named Hadhara that is said to have used the island to pray to God. This small forested hideaway off the Western coast is renowned both by divers, who consider it one of the best drift dives in the world, and Muslims, who revere it as a living prayer mat.

Misali island is steeped in mythology and is approached cautiously, more to protect the endangered corals than to disturb the spirits. The island contains three caves which were (and still are) used as sacrificial sites for fisherman appealing to the caves’ shetani (spirits) for health and bigger catches. The tracks of treasure hunters can also be found left behind by people searching for the fabled lost treasure of Captain Kidd. Whether or not gold is there, the treasured reefs of Misali are only a stroll away. Misali island is legendary among divers travelling in Zanzibar and its fish and coral species cannot be missed by any serious diver. The island also has several monkey-guarded walking trails leading to very picturesque and secluded beaches.

Ecotourism is often more of a brand-name than an authentic attempt at minimal-impact, responsible tourism, but it's a genuine practice on Misali island. Guests are greeted by the rangers stationed on the island and they joyfully explain their role in preserving the forest and surrounding reefs of Misali. Conservation is in the consciousness of the local fishermen here, who participate in ecological programs with a fervour unseen in many places on Zanzibar. Dynamite fishing, among many other destructive practices, was responsible for massive coral destruction on Misali. Though several environmental NGOs campaigned for the island’s protection in 2005, they quickly realized that their orthodox methods were failing. Seeing that the ears of the local community are inclined towards the mosques, environmental educators developed their conservation message to include Koranic teachings, a technique that proved successful in changing the attitudes of fisherman, who now guard the aquatic resources of Misali instead of destroying them. This initiative is a valuable lesson for conservationists in educating people on ecology in their own language.

Ngezi forest

The towering trees of the Ngezi forest in Pemba’s north-west harbour amazing and endangered species, including the Pemban Flying Fox. Ngezi itself is a relic of the native forest that once covered the entire island and anyone visiting should not miss the chance to see such secluded nature. The forest road is often nothing but a trail of fine white sand and the forest becomes so thick in places that sunlight is scarce. It can be quite spooky unless you bump into local schoolchildren bushwalking through it. If you follow the track further north you will make your way to the Vimbawimbi beach, Zanzibar’s northernmost beach facing Mombasa, Kenya.  Several dive centres also operate near the Ngezi Forest for those who prefer scuba to shrubbery.  

Tips for travel in Pemba:

-          Be especially mindful of your clothing. Locals are much more conservative than in tourist heavy Unguja (Zanzibar) island, but your effort will be recognized by the locals.

-          Bring a phrasebook. It’s essential unless you’re staying in a resort.

-          Take some extra supplies, especially insect repellent. Pemban merchandise is not as diverse as Unguja’s. It’s especially important for women to be well stocked with toiletries.

-          Eat local. Pembans are fantastic cooks and local dishes like octopus curry cannot be compared to.

-          Fly. The ferry to Unguja is unpredictable and often very slow.