The island aisle

July is wedding season in Zanzibar. The sound of kidumbak music fills the villages with the perfume of rose water. The wedding is the most important moment of in the life of Swahili people, and for Zanzibaris is serious business. In Swahili, a man is said to ‘marry’ while a woman is ‘married’. The marriage itself is not so much signing a contract or exchanging vows, however, but a series of celebrations and rituals which can vary in length, depending on the families, their wealth and their own traditions.

First a mahari (dowry) is negotiated between the couple’s families and the girl is given a sum of money or goods. On the wedding day, before the actual wedding vows are taken, she is asked three times if she’s consented to the marriage, if she says no at any time the wedding is immediately called off. If she agrees, vows are then taken with the witnesses present. Then the preparations begin.

Before the wedding the bi harusi (bride) receives her sanduku, a suitcase filled with personal items and kangas, chosen by her groom especially for their particular sayings. These proverbs guide her entry into the new family and his wishes for their marriage. The bride is then sent to her somo — or teacher — an older woman who instructs her on creating a sensual life. This sensuality is an important aspect of Swahili culture and is not merely sexual. The sensuality guides everything, including how to purify her body, her home, create allure and comfort for her husband and family and live as a Swahili woman.

A special form of initiation is performed for her, called unyago, using drums and chanting. The rituals have been a very secretive part of Swahili culture. The woman receiving unyago is taken inside for one day of ‘purification’. The elder women scatter mats on the ground (shuka or kitezo), a mixture of coconut oil, water and liwa (sandalwood) is made in a bowl and the women rub the mixture onto the bride’s body to purify it.

Unyago can last a few hours to several days, and during the ritual men are prohibited from seeing the woman. During this time she receives the singo scrub and is adorned in elaborate designs of henna. The bride’s traditional singo is a beauty preparation; her skin is scrubbed until it is silken and scented with essential oils of spices and tropical flowers. Perfume and scent is especially significant in Zanzibari married life. The essential oils of spices are used to consecrate the marital bed. Incense smoke is used to purify the home and both the bride and groom. Patchouli, ylang-ylang, coconut oil and cloves make up a popular mix for wedding couples. Ylang-ylang is believed to have aphrodisiac properties and the flowers are placed in the bedroom. The wedding couple are both massaged for up to a week before the ceremony.

On the day of the wedding, each woman wafts perfumed smoke (marashi ya moshi) over her hair and face and washes her hands with rosewater before singing and prayers. The blessing and exchange are done in the mosque, where the bride is not allowed to enter. Instead, a male representative joins the groom. Afterwards they return to the house where the bride is waiting inside. Female relatives and friends surround the house, singing and dancing to a Sufi band.

When the groom arrives, he must stand with his ‘best man’ and enter the house, placing his hand on his bride's head. They are then joined together and presented to those waiting outside. Food is served when the newlyweds leave; halua (an almond sweetmeat), coffee and cakes, and all the guests are perfumed. The actual reception takes place the next day with plenty more feasting, Taarab music and the most elaborate and colourfully dressed ladies you are likely to see in a long time. The festivities sometimes continue for a week.